switchbox.studio
!

Deadpool

Short Thocky Linear

  • Stem:
  • Spring:
  • Top:
  • Bottom:
  • Films:
  • Lube:
  • Pro Burgundy
  • As Preferred
  • Gazzew Boba
  • Gateron KS-3
  • Not Needed
  • As Preferred
 
Taxonomic name:

KS-3 Bottom & Boba Top w/ Pro Burgundy Stem

⚠ WARNING: I’ve gotten mixed reports about compatibility with these parts; proceed with that in mind. I have confirmed with Gazzew personally that no changes have been made to the Boba molds; the possibility exists this is a consistency issue, either with the housings or given stems. Generally, Gazzew does recommend getting some extras if you’re planning on doing frankens with his housings. If you’re having issues with stem clearance and don’t mind using polycarbonate tops, Gazzew sells a slightly relaxed version with Outemu badging that is more reliably compatible with other stems. ⚠

A tight, smooth, speedy linear with a distinctive look and sound.

Also known as the Gazzew-ron Pro Burgundy, credit goes to to u/slowshi on reddit for this recipe; you can see their original post with notes and typing test here.

I’ll also note this recipe is very similar to the Red Tap Dancer by donpark on keebtalk, trading the already great Mauve top for the softer, lighter, and tighter Gazzew Boba top.

Note: Slowshi’s original recipe calls for a 55g Durock spring or something lighter, but that was a little too light for me, so I decided to go for the Gateron Yellow spring I had leftover from harvesting the KS-3 bottom housing.

This might be my favorite sounding switch.

Using a black-housing Gateron Yellow as a baseline for comparison, the Deadpool obviously has a shorter travel, but is also notably more smooth, stable, and aurally distinct.

For me, this one’s all about the sound, and I really like it.

Compared to some other switches that bottom-out on a long center post, this one has a much less harsh impact and no associated rattle that I could hear. I think they sound a lot better than my Red Burgundys, for example.

The KS-3 and Boba housings are both a lot softer than, say, any part of a Panda housing - and I think this does a lot to mitigate those high-frequency vibrations while allowing the rest of the unique sound-profile through.

An important note about this frankenswitch (and others with similar top/bottom housing combinations); the Boba top does not have the leaf retention tabs present on Gateron tops, so the leaf is only held in-place by friciton. For this reason, I recommend using care when installing - and I don't recommend using it with hot-swap PCBs. If you do find one of the pins pushed-into the housing, simply pull it back down before soldering.

As a closing note, this applies to pretty much any switch with a total throw less than 4mm: If you’re interested in doing a build with these, I recommend you check out the video below by Walker's Keyboard Science - it will save you some headache when it comes to the stabs. Basically, you'll want a certain size of washer that fits around the cross-mounts and acts as a raised floor to prevent the cap from teeter-tottering one way or another on the stab mounts. This is also helpful for stabs where clipping significantly reduces the normal resting height of the mounts.